Meera Sodha’s vegan recipe for Filippino-style miso and coconut winter greens | The new vegan squib
Salty-sweet and silky coconut-scented kale and cabbage on a bed of fragrant rice
There’s something about chef Mary San Pablo, and that something is that she cooks some exceptionally fine food of Filipino origin, with an English lilt. She runs Luto, a pop-up but soon-to-be-permanent restaurant in east London, and it was there that I first ate laing, a dish of coconut milk-braised greens that’s traditionally made with taro leaves. Mary used kale, which she cooked to silky, flavourful submission (not words usually reserved for kale) and served over rice. I wrote this recipe because I had to eat it again before Mary’s restaurant opens, and really as a note to say, when it does open, go.